Here's your update, Fairy- Mary
;D
SNOW AFTER PUJA AND SAUNA....
On September, 21st the team of Club " 7 Summits - Alpindustria" has left the Chinese Base camp and after 5 hours has come to an Intermediate camp at 5400 m. There is a military post of frontier guards here. But no control was seen. Alexander Abramov has arrived in IBC on a motorcycle, but nobody has asked, whether he has rights. There was a snow at night, but we felt not bad.
22-th
we have moved with yaks to the Advanced Base Camp or АВС (5700 m). Here we have met Vladimir Zadokhin, Boris Korshunov (72 years old) and Valery Klochko, which came here already 2 weeks ago. They work on expedition Dream from Asian Trekking. Our friends are tied, because without Sherpas support, they had to put themselves all high-altitude camps. An assault camp (number 3) is not put yet, because of snow weather.
23-rd
there was a Puja holiday: consecration of camp and expedition. A monk has come and we sang songs and threw rice and flour in air. All descended in our well-known Bania (sauna). Even Uncle Boria (Korshunov) have washed. The same day we have prepared equipment for all high-altitude camps. Under the plan tomorrow our Sherpas should go to put a first high-altitude camp (6400 m), and next day and second camp (7100 m).
September, 24th.
Since morning the dense snowfall has changed all plans. It is good, that our camp is one of the best in АВС: warm double tents of a dining room with gas heaters and bulbs working from solar batteries and a generator. In tents warmly and chilly, but everyone wish to leave on a route. If 25-th it will be normal weather all we leave upward, in camp 1.
And posted today on the Russian page, with a translation through internet, it's not on the english page yet ....Yesterday on 26-th of October (and all is better than September)
In general 26-бря our command(team) from 6 (there is no all таки 7 person) having got out from under snowdrifts АВС and a blinding snow, even for понта, has decided to leave to walk in that steppe, that is aside invisible mountain CHO...
Many even and перекус have not taken a thermos, despite of mysterious statement Абрамова " and features it(him) knows, where night can find us... "
And it is exact, having departed all hour from АВС, We have started TO SEE.
Yes yes yes
We have seen ЧО-то þ«.
That is we began something to see
Not clear, but big. And only the mole would began to argue, that we have seen the bottom part of our mountain, just up to Camp 1. Up to 6400м.
And above we also should not see, small still.
And so, having pulled out, it is casual засунутую to me in a backpack the careful cook, a portable radio set, type you will get hungry shout, I have started to cause desperately АВС, сирдара and everyone шерпа separately, hoping, on them непроницательность, in the moments when on good portable radio sets switch off all and go to bed.
On their misfortune there was one fair шерпа, and after a session of loud communication(connection) (minutes 30) it(he) has been convinced of that that weather smart, and even arrangements of friends шерпов from the next expeditions(dispatches), that type that Alex has simply gone mad, could not stop the mechanism started by me.
Well everything, шерпы are suppressed and start to drag on top all that is necessary for unexpected spending the night in Camp 1 (6400м).
Now there was the most complex(difficult), to inform(notify) a command(team) that we went to a wood, and we shall go on fire wood. Having caught up and having typed(collected) by impudence choking I have coughed a command(team): well, weather супер, nothing to waste time, шерпы ask us to continue movement upwards and have thrust to drag to us Camp 1. We shall not strike in a dirt the person(face) before шерпаками as downwards to go already more dangerously than upwards as a track has swept up, and alone to return chances 50 х 50.
Probably last argument has even more rallied a command(team), and all have unanimously decided to go to spend the night a horse-radish knows in what place. You when нибудь heard, that the decent place would refer to CAMP №1. About тож...
By 7 o'clock exhausted we долезли up to a crest 6400 also were placed in put already among сераков and сираков палаток.
Last 2 days of a bad weather have transformed Camp 1 into a battlefield.
Heap fragmentary палаток, and happy persons(faces) fat a raven so has met us ЛАГЕРЬ№1.
Night has not brought rest, but has added on one courageous fold on everyone and without that супер the courageous person(face). In fact it is cowards play hockey, and we heroically chew on 6400 brought шерпами products and we tease a raven, pieces копчённой hens, type and with you same we shall create, creatures heavenly.
But here минула night the dawn also has begun.
Where you were , the Dawn?
For you waited both in 12 and at an o'clock and per three...
And what for you have come, when already all have solved, that night never will terminate, and all already have begun to pray to stars.
And stars have already started talking to us, and YOU here have come and have broken off all кайф. We already have almost agreed, and here YOU.
Also it is necessary to rise and climb from a warm sleeping bag in morning замороженность a slope with one only an idea, to be in time, донесть, up to edge(territory) of breakage, to get, not забр-р-рызгать boots, and not ё..... ся from this devil's breakage in these(it) devilishly фирмешных, but not on русски slippery internal boots.
To describe descent(release) in АВС sense is not present.
Everyone who has lead even one night at height 6400...
ОК sorry, even on 4600 knows, how the ground and as in the morning on frozen сыпухе it would be desirable to sit down on this skin pulls downwards and to erase back up to bones, what in city is proud showing its(his) (back) to the beloveds, to assure them of that that has received an industrial trauma, having accepted unequal fight with 100-th душманов.
And here АВС
The dinner, bath, the bright sun, good weather, I at a computer, naked, in tent + 60, a roof goes, and a short news home to write it is necessary.
There are some new pictures as well, you can all see them on this link:
www.7summts.ru